Guatemala - 2010

Day 01 - July 20 - Travel and Mexico City

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Back to friends and family here.

As is normal, it was hard to get ready for the trip on Monday – getting business done, collecting things, setting up the small netbook I bought to take with me. Denece and I got to sleep late and both of us had trouble sleeping. In the Navy this is called “Channel Fever” – excitement for returning home OR, in my case, thinking about the trip and, of course, needing to sleep.

We got to the airport in the 4:00 A.M. hour. I am traveling Mexicana airlines this time and they didn't even have personnel at the check-in counter, yet!

The trip to Mexico City was uneventful. Just as is normal in the US , people automatically switched to English when they saw me. They would walk by a line of travelers and say: “Buenas Dias”; “Buenas Dias”; “Hello”. And I know that they are being kind, but the ubiquity of English makes it hard to learn Spanish even in a foreign country. (As I type it is a bit confusing. My brain is continually wanting to write the Spanish words.) There was also a kind lady that sat next to me that is from Mexico , but is study to take her US citizenship test. I saw some of the questions she has to study, knew most of the answers, but not all of them (like a test – they seem to make things less obvious).

I had 12 hours of layover in Mexico City (yes – 12!). After getting this itinerary, I decided quickly to try to escape the airport and see a bit of Mexico . After customs (which is easy when you don't have more than to small backpacks) I paid $10 for a locker for my things (almost everything, including traveler's checks and cash), got cash out of an ATM, and got directions to the Metro.

 

 

The Metro was not recommended by everyone on the internet, but was very easy, cheap, and I never felt unsafe. The cost is $3 pesos (less than a quarter) each way. It is set up like any subway: look for the signs that give the final station on that line and get off when you get to the transfer spot you need. Each station has a name and a symbol. The picture for my final station ( Chapultepec ) was el saltamontes (I knew this word, already: grasshopper).

The only thing other than normal new things was talking to a passenger that was reading Harry Potter in Spanish. It was a good adventure, less sterile than a cab or tourist bus. Some interesting things I saw: 1) A public service announcement about separating trash into organic and inorganic wastes. It wasn't clear how they are going to deal with the organic material, but at least they are going to try. 2) There are lines during certain times (night, I think) just for women and children. And there are supposedly separate cars for them, too. 3) In one place they had several antibacterial gel dispensers to combat disease. I didn't see anyone use them.

 

I thought my final station would be right next to the museum/zoo, but it wasn't. A kind person told me that the museum was 10 or 15 minutes walk from the station and told me to take a bus. The bus was a microbus, which can only carry 15 or so passengers, but this time there were only 2. It cost $3.50 pesos (again, about a quarter).

 

The Museum of Anthropology is one of the biggest in the Americas . I would say it is like the Natural History Museum in NY and just as impossible to see or absorb in a single day.

It was possible to rent an audio tour in English, but I chose not to. I was there to learn Spanish! And I was surprised how well I did reading all of the placards in Spanish. Some have English, too, but only a small portion. I did need my electronic translator for some words, some of which came back over and over, which taught me more vocabulary, too.

I spent the first hour or two in the section about the evolution of humans. I knew some of the information, but only a small portion. So in addition to Spanish practice I did learn a lot. They had reproductions of Lucy and other important Homo ancestors. One fact that seemed obvious after reading it was about child bearing and bipedalism (walking on 2 legs). With a women walking upright her child was in danger of falling on its head AND its broader shoulders could cause problems in the birth channel. This made it very advantageous for humans to group together so women could help each other to increase child survival.

This was at the end of the hominid exibit. The pictures change with your angle: face or skull. It is to compare the skulls of the many people and races.

 

Reproduced cave wall with hieroglyphs.

I read almost everything in the first two rooms and enjoyed it a lot. I then ate at the museum's restaurant. It seemed high for Mexico, but it is a tourist place. I had a chicken, rice, and avocado soup and bread. Not fancy, but still almost 8 or 9 US dollars.

After lunch things went downhill. I started to get tired, both with my feet and my head. Museums are good for only so long and I had 6 hours at this one. At first I read every sign in Spanish. After a while I started to read mostly the English. Then it was only the English. Then I didn't read anything. The information, artifacts, and displays were amazing, but there were so many!!!!

I don't even know which culture made these hand size figurines.

 

There were entire rooms about the Mayans or the Olmecs or the Mexicas, etc. The history of Mexico is so much richer than I ever thought possible.

I'm not sure, but I think this was close to the Mayan section.

It is about 4 feet in height.

They even had life size replicas of some facades inside. This one has displays under the front entrance.

In one part of the Mayan hall they had a pyramid spread throughout 3 floors, so as you descended you would be descending into the tomb. At the bottom level they had a tomb with the top off as they found it.

 

And I was surprised to find elaborate displays outside. They built replicas of temples and tombs outside. Some were life size. Some were probably scale models, but they were all impressive.

The large head is Olmec and is 4 or 5 feet tall.

 

Here is one of the life size temples outside. Inside are exact replicas of the paintings and writings.

 

This is the farthest room that is dedicated to the Aztecs. It was huge. Notice the size of the stone at the back. I don't know if it is a calendar or a stone for human sacrifices. Such stones have a channel in the top for the blood to run through.

An outside exhibit of a ball game the Mayans placed. It was the precursor to soccer, I believe, and is still played today by a few. Players try to get the rubber ball thru the rings with their shoulders or elbows. For certain fouls they would be executed. Many times the information would say that enemies were then taken to the ball game.

 

The roof of the center of the museum. This is looking toward the enterance. This structure is held up by just one column, which is offset toward the enterance. It is very impress up close.

The reeds are part of a pool that has ducks and turtles and is primarily a resting place.

 

 

Sometime in the afternoon it began to rain and rain hard! Fortunately, my raincoat was NOT back in the locker in the airport.

When I finally left, around 5:30 p.m. or so, I bought food in front of the museum with the locals. And with the locals I ate it under the tarps as the rain poured. And easy bus ride and metro ride and I was back at the airport with at least 3 hours left before my flight. A successful adventure, indeed.

 

 

Back at the airport I grabbed a subway sandwich and a drink before entering security. At security there was a sign that said that all food, drink, liquids, and gels were prohibited. That would include the dinner I just bought for later (and was not hungry for yet) and the toiletries I had bought back in Texas (and not yet used). Fortunately, the security guard said it wasn't a problem. Whew!

Once in the secure departure area I was unable to find my flight number on the monitors. Not even the information people knew. My flight left at 9:55 p.m. and even at 9:00 I had no idea where to go. Finally information said gate 30. At gate 30 there was noone. Again, I was nervous. Finally, I found another Mexicana agent at another gate who told me gate 34 (with only 45 minutes left). The time ended up being much more than that because of some security issue that brought forth 6 or 7 burly Mexican Federal Police officers. They finally questioned a man, but didn't arrest him. ??? One other thing: there was a college student from the US (I think) that wasn't allowed on board because she didn't have her custom's document. She had probably stayed in the secure area all day and didn't think she needed to go thru customs, since it was just a layover. You actually must go thru customs in every country. She was exhausted and mad. I hope things worked out for her.

Not having checked baggage I was thru Guatemalan customs and out of the Guatemala City airport immediately. Maria made sure there was a person waiting for me at the airport: Alex. The trip from the airport was very good because Alex took a small, comfortable car instead of the normal airport shuttle van. I was also surprised that the highway was so good. For most of the trip, the road seemed brand new or in perfect condition. Alex had only the address and it was very dark and late, so both of us were reluctant to ring a door bell and wake the wrong person, which happened once, one door to the right. I paid Alex directly, but found out the next day that he was employed by another friend of Maria that works at a travel agency, so Maria had the money I had given Alex.

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