Guatemala - 2010

Day 02 - Wed., July 21- Antigua First Day

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Back to friends and family here.

I am staying with a friend of Maria: Elsa. All of this is between friends, instead of thru the school, which means I have to be discreet, since Elsa works for the school. Why not with the school? Of course, the school takes a cut (about 30%) and I want the friends to get better pay. It is the same for me and better for them. I barely met Elsa the night before as she showed me to my room about 1 a.m. ( Guatemala : 2 a.m. Texas ).

This is Elsa cooking dinner. Her kitchen is very large. It is bigger than mine (a bit). She is cooking Perulero a small variety of Chayote. It is boiled to soften the skin and peeled. Inside it has both potato consistency (starch) and onion structure (layers). It was OK, but different. Here's info at wikipedia.

 

 

Elsa works at La Union as a teacher. Her husband, Manuel is a restorer of antiquities. He restores wood, paint, pottery, or whatever. The “Gringo” he is working for with the Smithsonian, I believe, so it is above board. And, as with most of the families in Antigua , they rent rooms. (With over 75 Spanish immersion schools in Antigua , it is probably one of the most important industries in town.)

Elsa and Manuel have three rooms to rent (that aren't already occupied with family members). Including me, only 2 are occupied right now.

 

The other boarder is Arian, a college student from Quebec . (It is interesting that one of the boarders my last time was a young girl from Quebec .) As is common with non-Americans she learned multiple languages growing up and continue to learn more.

She is going home early sunday morning.

 

 

This is a spot heater in Guatemala. (click the picture for closer view) The shower head IS the water heater. This is a newer version than my last visit and it puts out a lot more heat. It uses 50 A and 120V. Notice the wires running to it from the wall. It has its own circuit, of course, too. These are normal in Guatemala. It is so much more efficient than a water heater.

In the US we have on demand water heaters, too, though they are rare. They are not at spot sources, but are for the entire house. They are also more efficient than the tank models, but cost 2 or 3 thousand dollars to install. This device? $30 at the store. Hmmmmm.
I may buy one and see if I can get thru customs......

(A couple of days later someone said that this is called a "Widow Maker". Two foreigners said that the way they know it is working is if they get a shock when they turn on the water. Ours is very new and we don't have any trouble with it.)

I woke around 6:15 a.m., showered and went downstairs. Elsa was preparing breakfast, which wasn't until 7:30 (which seems late to me). Breakfast was French toast with powdered sugar and fruit. Meals are part of the housing cost, except for Sundays. This is a good place to lose weight. They serve good, well prepared meals, but one plate only – and very rarely seconds. The American propensity to eat until we are full is cut off at the pass. I have been hungry often between meals, which is a very good thing, compared to back home where often I am not hungry at all, but sometimes eat anyway. And, of course, not having a car helps, too.

Maria (on the left) - my morning teacher that I met last time.

Yori - the travel agent that got me the ride from the airport.

 

 

Maria was late in arriving due to traffic. She lives in a neighboring city about 10 minutes away. Having a car is pretty unusual here, so I was surprised to here this. Apparently she is borrowing it from a friend that is on vacation. Mystery solved!

Anyway, we started our day by talking at the house in the table. Maria was constantly jotting down notes as I made mistakes, obviously learning what I needed. I eventually made it much easier for her – I need everything. It took a while to convince her that I really didn't want to do a lot of writing in notebooks, but just wanted copious amounts of conversation and listening. She was quick to oblige.

 

Soon afterwards we wandered and talked about stuff. I don't really even remember what we talked about – just stuff. One funny thing that comes up often is her height. She is short even for Guatemalans. Even with high heels she came up to my chest. Because of this and the very narrow sidewalks, I generally walk on the street. People can pass by and I don't have to bend over all the time to hear her. J

We walked thru the central plaza and ended up at the Mercado (market), where we just sat on a bench. I do remember that this time was mostly talking about work and school. I told her about AP classes in the US and I found out that she did start university, but had to stop because her English isn't good enough. The last time I was here I remember that she spoke very little English. My afternoon teacher (Diana) would translate for us. If I understand it correctly, students need to be able to speak English to continue their studies in the University. Maria wants to study diplomatic relations or something like that.

We returned to the house for lunch and she went to change for her new job. This was her first day at the front desk of a hotel.

Random photos of Antigua.

 

 

Lunch was at 1:15 p.m. (definitely later than the last house I stayed at) and was vegetables and a bit of beef with onions: again good and sufficient, but not too much.

In the afternoon I went to La Union to see about an afternoon teacher, but was still concerned about Elsa and the possibility of her getting in trouble or losing her job for by passing the school. I actually walked around the block several times debating. Not using the school in the afternoon means no access to many benefits at the school: free wi-fi internet and afternoon activities being the most important. But protecting Elsa and her family won out.

I went back to the house, instead, where I found Elsa, a friend, and one of the daughters surrounded by boxes and bottles of beauty supplies. Elsa is the organizer for one of the Avon-like businesses here. I watched, listened, and even helped a bit. I carried some heavy boxes (heavy for the small ladies) and helped them design an order form. The one they had made the ordering process less efficient and the math much harder. They even have a computer and do everything by hand.

Later I wandered around a bit, looking for payphones and Internet (primarily). I have a phone card from the US , but can't use a cell phone (like Maria's). I need a land line. All of the phones I found either charged for international calls (no card), were in very public places (the plaza), or (this I must admit) were not obvious in their usage. I knew that there was a phone and Internet at the house, but I was reluctant to ask. I didn't want to intrude and they seem to keep the student part different from the family part. Once I explained that my phone card wouldn't cost them anything, Elsa let me use the house phone. I tried to call Denece, but she didn't answer. I waited until the next morning because, again, I am reluctant to ask permission.

 

 

Church of Saint Augustine

The workers here at the resturant are giving me the names for the photos. :)

 

Antigua is surrounded by 3 volcanos. Some of them are active. This one is Acatenango More here at wikipedia.

The most surprising thing is that this was my first time getting a picture of one of the volcanos (and this includes the last trip, too). It is rare for the clouds to part during this time of the year.

The central square (plaza).

 

One of the churches next to the square.

San Jose de Catedral

 

 

And another good view. This time of Volcan de Agua.

There is too much rain to climb them right now. The third is Pacaya and it erupted earlier this year, damaging a village. It was common to climb it and look at the lava, but not now, obviously.

OK – I spent the rest of my time looking for dice (dados) to teach the family and the other student “Perudo” – liar's dice. The only dice I found were very small (half the size of ours) or very large (for party favors). I bought 25 (5 sets) at a supermarket for around $3 US (I think). I also bought a gallon of water to brush my teeth with (just to be safe).

Dinner was late (like all of the other meals) at around 7:15 p.m. The meal was some pasta and vegetable soup and perulero (see above).

What was more surprising about dinner was, once again, the family ate separately. Elsa would cook for just us two students (with a bit of our help) and herself, but her family (2 daughters and husband) were nowhere to be found. It seems strange, less family-like.

After dinner I quickly taught Arian perudo (dice game) and then she was kind to invite me to go with her and two other students to the Rainbow Lounge. The other two students are Anick (A-neek), a college psychiatry teacher also from Quebec, and Jess, a junior high English teacher from New York .

The entrance of the Rainbow lounge is an English language bookstore and the clientele was mostly foreigners. I learned that the others travel a lot. For instance, Jess told us about going to Kilimanjaro: really cool. It was also open mic night at the lounge. If you sing, you get a free beer. So, I did! When I got to the mic, borrowing a guitar from the band, I said: “And now for something completely different: science songs!”

 

 

I sang three of my science songs for them. And, very fun for me, the drummers played along, and quite well, too. We learned to communicate well and they slowed, sped up, stopped abruptly, etc. Arian knew many of the workers and band members, so she stayed and went dancing with them. The rest of us went home to sleep.

Next page - Thursday, July 22 - Stevie - Call Home!

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